Banh Mi

In September 2022, banh mi was officially added to the Merriam-Webster dictionary. Around the same time, CNN Travel ranked it among the top 23 sandwiches in the world, reflecting its growing popularity and global reputation. Although available worldwide, eating the Vietnamese sandwich in its hometown is something you cannot miss. So, what is there inside this much-loved baguette, and how does it make its way to being recognized on the global culinary map? Let’s find out together.

A brief history of banh mi

Have you ever wondered what has happened in the last two centuries that transformed baguettes, the so-called “Western bread” at the time, into banh mi - a culinary hero that marks Vietnam on the global culinary map? Let’s time travel with us to find out.

What is the banh mi?

The Merriam-Webster dictionary defines banh mi as “a usually spicy sandwich in Vietnamese cuisine consisting of a split baguette filled typically with meat and pickled vegetables and garnished with cilantro and often cucumbers”.

However, for us, who have been eating banh mi our whole life, it is more than just a sandwich. It’s a staple of Vietnamese life, beloved by people from all walks of life. It’s the first thing we think of when we’re in a rush, the most affordable meal for those “low-budget” days, the most filling and portable food to take anywhere, and, of course, a dish we proudly introduce to our international friends.

When did the banh mi arrive in Vietnam?

Many historical records suggest that baguettes, or “breadsticks”, were brought to Vietnam by the French expeditionary forces in the 1850s. These ready-baked baguettes, a staple of French cuisine, likely weren’t sufficient to feed the soldiers during months at sea. As a result, baguettes were probably baked locally wherever the troops settled.

Why is it called the banh mi?

When baguettes first appeared in the North, they were referred to as “Western bread” since, obviously, they were made for the French people. However, in the South, back then, people already called the French baguettes by the name banh mi. One explanation is that, in Vietnamese, “banh” refers to any food made from flour, especially by baking, and “mi” is the shortened form of bot mi - or wheat flour. So, banh mi literally means a cake made from wheat flour. Another hypothesis is that banh mi resembles the sound of Pain de mie, which means white bread in French. Regardless of the reason, this term has now become the universally accepted name for the Vietnamese baguette.

When did the Vietnamese banh mi get its shape?

It is a long journey for banh mi to come from long, thin, and crusty baguettes to the Vietnamese bread you see today.

When first arrived, banh mi was a classic French baguette - a long, narrow loaf of bread, and was only eaten at a dining table in Western style. The first attempt to make it was with brick ovens, built in the traditional French style and heated by coal or wood (much resembles pizza wood ovens).

In the 1910s, when World War I broke out, food scarcity happened worldwide. Local bakers had to make changes to the recipes by adding rice flour to make up for the shortage of wheat flour. Adding to that, the way Vietnamese bakers constructed their ovens with local building materials allowed the moisture to stay inside longer. The mixture of wheat and rice flour and the sealed structure of the baking ovens resulted in a softer and airier texture inside while thinner and crustier outside banh mi.

Following the economic recession, banh mi was first cut into smaller pieces and then made shorter and smaller to lower the price and to be ready to eat on the way. This significantly marked the transformation in the shape of banh mi, retaining its appearance until the modern days.

How did the banh mi become loved by the Vietnamese?

You might be surprised, but when banh mi first arrived in the 19th century during the height of French colonialism, it was actually boycotted by Vietnamese patriots. It was mostly consumed by the French, the Vietnamese upper classes, and those working in the French government.

In the early 20th century, banh mi began to gain popularity, appearing in advertisements in newspapers and flyers. French bakeries made their way further south to My Tho, Ben Tre, and all the way to Can Tho. Although it was still considered a “luxury” item, it was no longer seen as an “exotic” food by the locals. It became more widely available, baked in larger quantities, and always fresh.

In the early 1930s, together with the growing familiarity, banh mi also became more affordable for ordinary people. They were no longer just a staple to serve with French omelets on a dining table with forks and knives, but more a takeaway snack or a dry treat on long trips.

In the 2000s, when Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) underwent explosive development, people from far-flung corners of Vietnam flocked to this city, which was praised as the “Pearl of the Far East”, to gaze at it in wonder. One of the intimate images of banh mi at that time still engraved in our minds is the bamboo basket stacked with hot, crispy bread covered under a large sack. These baskets were often seen tied to the back of street vendors’ bicycles, placed on sidewalks, or lined up in front of bus stations, where they were cherished as a Saigon specialty and popular souvenir. Every time the sack was lifted off, the buttery and warm fragrance of hot, fresh banh mi filled the air, and no one could resist but eat the bread right away without any side dishes or toppings. Eating “banh mi khong“, (plain banh mi) hence, became a huge part of Vietnamese food culture.

In our childhood memories, whenever someone in our little town traveled to Saigon, the villagers, from children to seniors, could not hide their excitement at receiving banh mi Saigon as gifts. We sat together while our parents tore it into pieces and distributed it to us, the excited kids. That’s what we grew up with and how it became indispensable in our lives.

So, after two centuries of presence and integration, banh mi has made its way into Vietnamese people’s lives and become a part of our regular diet, something we cannot live without.

Banh mi ingredients

Eating banh mi is truly an exciting culinary experience. The incredible combination of crispy bread, soft cold cuts and meat, crunchy pickles, and fresh herbs will take you through different layers of the sense of taste. A typical loaf of banh mi consists of the ingredients listed below for reference:

• Banh mi bread: Made from high hydration dough and high protein flour, which creates a perfectly light and soft bread with a beautifully caramelized crispy crust.
• Butter: Made by beating egg yolks with cooking oil, lime juice, salt, and sugar. It has a melted butter texture but is creamier in taste.
• Pâté: Made from pork liver. The finished pâté is smooth in texture and extremely rich in flavor.
• Vietnamese cold cuts: This could have its own section; however, the most popular cold cut used in banh mi is “cha lua” - a Vietnamese pork sausage roll. It consists of well-seasoned ground pork wrapped in banana leaves in the shape of a sausage roll and boiled until fully cooked. Another common option is the Vietnamese jambon, also known as red cold cuts. This includes lean pork and pork skin seasoned with black pepper, wrapped in a piece of pork skin and steamed until well cooked.
• Pickles and vegetables: Usually include pickled carrot and white daikon julienne cuts, combined with sliced cucumber, fresh coriander, green onions, and fresh chilies.
• Sauce: Soy sauce and homemade tomato sauce are usually the final touch for a loaf of banh mi.

The ingredients are added in the order mentioned, and they will surprise and satisfy you with their perfect blend of textures - crispy, crunchy, and soft - and how their tastes complement each other so perfectly. Most of the ingredients are homemade, so despite being made from the same ingredients, banh mi tastes vary from vendor to vendor, making it a unique experience every time you try it.

Types of banh mi

There are countless variations of banh mi categorized by fillings that vary widely and uniquely across regions, with just the banh mi loaf as the main ingredient. Now, let’s travel southwards and take a look at six popular and iconic versions of this sandwich that have greatly contributed to putting it on the global cuisine map.

Banh mi chao Hanoi

Banh mi bot loc Da Nang

Banh mi Hoi An

Banh mi cha ca Nha Trang

Banh mi xiu mai Dalat

Banh mi thit nuong Saigon

The eating culture of banh mi

1. Best drink to pair with banh mi: Since the sandwich can be a bit dry, it’s ideal to pair it with a drink. The classic and most popular choice is iced black coffee (ca phe den da) or iced milk coffee (ca phe sua da). This is also the iconic Vietnamese breakfast combo.
2. The go-to option: Just like other Vietnamese dishes, a broad range of banh mi toppings can be overwhelming and leave you confused about which one to go for. A thap cam - mixed combo - will be a good place to start. It comes with everything the dish offers, so you can have a full picture of what the dish is like and pick out your favorite toppings for the next order.
3. When to eat: Banh mi is typically eaten in the morning for breakfast due to its filling quality and portability. It provides a perfect energy boost to fuel your day of exploring. However, you can enjoy it for lunch, dinner, or anytime you like. Personally, we love this sandwich so much that we could eat it every day for several days in a row.
4. Banh mi as a sweet treat: If you ask any Vietnamese, they will tell you about the pleasure of dipping banh mi in condensed milk and eating it straight. It may sound strange, but the sweet, creamy milk somehow just blends perfectly with the bread’s texture, making it such a satisfying combo that we are privileged to grow up with. Apart from eating with condensed milk, you can also find air-dried banh mi coated with white sugar, which is super crispy and fun to eat.

Where to eat banh mi

The Vietnamese sandwich can be found all over Vietnam, with endless variations, each offering its own unique fillings and preparation methods. For a delicious banh mi experience, here are some of our top recommendations on where to enjoy it:

Ho Chi Minh City

• Banh Mi Huynh HoaAddress: 26 Le Thi Rieng, District 1Price: 68,000 VND ($2.7)
• Banh Mi Bui Thi XuanAddress: 122E Bui Thi Xuan, District 1Price: 35,000 VND

Hanoi

• Banh Mi 25Address: 25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem DistrictPrice: 49,000 VND - 59,000 VND

• Banh Mi Chao Hieu LucAddress: 326 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung DistrictPrice: 35,000 VND - 55,000 VND

Da Nang

• Banh Mi Bot LocAddress: 73 Huynh Thuc Khang, Hai Chau DistrictPrice: 10,000 VND - 20,000 VND

• Banh Mi Ba LanAddress: 62 Trung Nu Vuong, Hai Chau DistrictPrice: 15,000 VND - 35,000 VND

Hoi An

• Banh Mi PhuongAddress: 2B Phan Chau Trinh, Cam Chau WardPrice: 35,000 VND

• Madam KhanhAddress: 115 Tran Cao Van, Minh An WardPrice: 30,000 VND

Nha Trang

• Banh Mi Cha Ca Nha TrangAddress: 14 Yersin, Van Thang WardPrice: 16,000 VND

• Banh Mi Ba LeAddress: 63 Le Thanh Phuong, Van Thang WardPrice: 15,000 VND - 30,000 VND

Dalat

• Banh Mi Xiu Mai Ri 79Address: 01 Thong Thien Hoc, Ward 2Price: 15,000 VND - 30,000 VND

• Banh Mi Xiu Mai Phuc HanAddress: 34 Hoang Dieu, Ward 5Price: 20,000 VND - 40,000 VND